Leftovers #72
The other day I scrambled under a bush to get to a flat stone look out that peers over the Helford River. Overlooking one of my favourite pubs, boats dotted in the distance, Monterey pines dramatically edging out over the water, the sun slowly peeking under the clouds. I had just discovered a new secret swim spot and was about to drink two glasses of vino verde with a chicken schnitzel dinner that would taste like the best burger you’ve ever had but deconstructed on a plate, the tarragon just pushing through the aioli and tingling the back of your throat. Enveloped in the last of summer, it’s always so tempting to feel the pull back to the coast. Familiar faces, places and scenes play out before you; nothing but vast stretches of water and romantic drizzle and sun-soaked coves and slipping back into routines with friends as if it hasn’t been a year since you’ve seen them. Yes, I’m always tempted to return. For good. But is it for the good? It’s the perpetual question that dances on my lips. In the meantime, here are some things I’ve been enjoying.
Spent half of the past week sleeping in cars and vans, cooking outside, hiking up tiny mountains or coastal cliffs, eating crispy fried eggs made under the sun and generally remembering what it’s like to exist outside the calendar chaos of the city. Wondering how I can really achieve the balance. It looks like investing in a (second hand) car - if anyone has any leads let me know!
On that cooking outside note, here are a few things I made in Wales last weekend, and also some tips on meal planning for a camping trip (keep it simple, use lots of butter).
Things I’d like to eat this week: wasabi-laced beans and peppers on toast; an ambrosial looking elevated chip butty; the seemingly prosaic but actually poetic tomato sub from Dom’s; this spinach risotto with flakey hot smoked salmon that might be my Monday night dinner I’ll cook for pals; a perfect plate of peaches, parm, green beans and hazelnuts; and to continue my newfound love of schnitzel: one piled with a summery tangle of kale, cukes and yuzu vinaigrette.
This piece on Vittles, titled Cooking Against The Theft Of Time by Uzma Falak, is a reminder of why food writing is so important.
Growing up in Kashmir, ordinary acts of cooking and eating were rendered extraordinary. Our lives were lived from curfew to curfew, siege to siege. During cordon and search operations, military troops frisked each corner, cabinet and cupboard. They searched under the carpets and over the roofs. Our homes became battlegrounds.
I misplaced an earring so rather than walk around like a pirate, I found a pair of beautiful brass-cast ones that sit heavy on my lobes in the best way – these ones are by a Newquay jewellery-maker called Cody.
Taking a moment to appreciate lying on Becca’s sofa with the sun streaming through whilst I write this newsletter.
Not one to truly follow recipe books (go figure) but this was one my friend Kyla almost got me when I was in Canada (until she saw the amount of stuff I needed to take back in my suitcase) – a collection of stories and recipes from six California kitchens, my spiritual home. It’s by Sally Schmidt who opened The French Laundry in 1978 – I never made it to the restaurant but it was super close to the winery I worked in Northern California. It’s the kind of place you can imagine someone from The Bear staging at in season 3.
Speaking of, this picture of Jeremy Allen White is on repeat in my mind. Sorry for objectifying but:
I’ve seen a trailer for the new Paul Mescal/Ssoirée Roman film, Foe, which looks undeniably good. And there’s strong Brideshead Revisited themes coming through in Saltburn, the new Emerald Fennell film starring Barry Keoghan and Jacob Elordi! Place me in a dark cinema this autumn and delete all my social plans. Past Lives has either just or is about to come out in UK cinemas – you simply must!! Here’s an essay I wrote after watching it.
I won’t be back in time but there’s a gorgeous Hilma Af Klimt and Piet Mondrian exhibition at the Tate until 3rd September – very spiritual, very abstract, go see it and take pics for me!
And here’s the EP that’s been on repeat in the studio from BADBADNOTGOOD and Turnstile.
