I did not foresee a recipe that has three ingredients (ok five, if you count salt and oil) to become my nemesis. It’s one of my favourite bites – a collision of tender, salted potatoes, soft onions and bright orange eggs, just set on the outside, still runny and loose on the inside – specifically the one from Tranga on Newington Green. I have read countless recipes, watched an unbelievable amount of videos and tested a fair few tortillas. I’m not usually one for quantities or over zealous instructions, but when there’s so few ingredients, I’ve discovered it’s better to be a bit more militant. I brought one to the park to eat under pale pink, cloudless skies with my brilliant friend, Coco. We ate 3/4 of it with a bottle of crisp white wine and a tangle of lime miso vinaigrette dressed rocket leaves, and to finish, a bag of cherries, the most summery of desserts (I always think of how Anna Tobias has a bowl of cherries on ice on the menu at Café Deco).
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